Cutting Table Components
4 Four Cube Organizer Shelves, 30” high, 29.84” Wide, 14.57” Deep (Target)
2 Table Tops, greater than 58.98” by 29.14 (IKEA)
2 Swivel Casters Non-Locking, 3-4” (Menards)
3 Swivel Casters with Brake, 3-4” (Menards)
4 Carriage bolts, approximately ½” by 3”, matching nuts (Menards)
6 Metal Braces approximately 3” wide (Menards)
Several appropriately sized screws for metal braces and swivel casters
1 two foot by three foot piece of non-skid carpet base.
Drill with appropriately sized bits, screwdriver.
Let me first say that I did this by myself, and I have no carpentry skills and not much muscle. Each of the pieces separately I was able to lift and maneuver without much grunting. I am sure that there are ways to construct this in a more attractive way, such as securing the units without the metal braces showing. Since this is in my “work room” I was more concerned with functionality, and getting it done, more than aesthetics. I will also say that I have deconstructed and moved this unit to three different rooms now, and it still holds together fine. I am sure some husbands will cringe at the metal brackets, but here it is.
I began by applying the casters to the underside of the base piece, which is one of the table tops. I installed the two non-locking casters close to the center of the base piece, evenly spaced so to support the middle portion of the unit. I then applied the locking casters to the four corners, and locked them.
The second step included placing the four shelving units on the top size of the base unit to position. Two units were placed back to back in the center of the base, with the remaining units placed on each side of those in the center, end caps, so to speak. This allows for 8 of the cubby units to have a back and 8 do not. This gives the option of storing longer items, like bolts of fabric, in the backless cubbies. Once I had the units in position, I drew a pencil line, lightly, around the configuration.
I removed the 4 shelf units and drilled a hole through the bottom each, to fit the carriage bolt. After making the hole in the shelves, I place them back in position on the base table, and used a marker through the drilled hole to place the location where I needed to drill a hole in the base. I removed the shelves again, drilled the four holes, repositioned the shelving units, and threaded a carriage bolt through each of the four openings, securing with the matching nuts. The carriage bold top sits almost flush to the floor of the shelf. I can easily slide anything over the bolts and my storage boxes sit level on top of the bolts.
After the shelving units were in place, I secured them to each other using the metal brackets. I used my Dremel rotary tool to first drill pilot holes for the screws.
I positioned a piece of non-skid carpeting base on top of the shelving units, and placed the remaining table top on top of this pieces. Because I used a piece of non-skid fabric that was approximately ¾ the size of the table top dimension, I was able to easily slide the table top in place without sticking on the non-skid fabric. Once the table top is positioned on top of this fabric, I am able to use the table top without slippage.
Last, I positioned the internal shelves using the pins that came with the units. Over time I purchased some fabric drawers. My preference is usually for clear storage so that I can remember what I have. But, for things I will use often, the fabric drawers function well, and look a little bit nicer.